What is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin your body can't manufacture on its own and can't store for long. You get it through diet, but applying it topically delivers it directly where you want it to work - in the upper layers of the skin.

Once absorbed, niacinamide converts into two coenzymes your skin cells rely on for energy production and repair. These are the processes that quietly slow down with age, sun exposure and general environmental stress, and they're the reason a single ingredient can appear to do so many different things at once. Niacinamide isn't really doing five separate jobs. It's supporting the underlying cellular machinery that governs oil production, pigment transfer, barrier repair and inflammatory response all at the same time.

That's also why it's so well tolerated. It isn't forcing an outcome the way an exfoliating acid or a retinoid does — it's supporting processes your skin already runs.

Is niacinamide the same as niacin?

Not quite, and the difference is worth knowing because the two names get used interchangeably in places they shouldn't be.

Both are forms of Vitamin B3, but they behave differently. Niacin — nicotinic acid — causes the well-documented "niacin flush": a hot, red, prickling sensation across the skin caused by blood vessels dilating. Harmless, but uncomfortable, and not something you want from a product you're applying twice a day.

Niacinamide is the amide form. It delivers the same Vitamin B3 benefits without triggering flushing. When you see niacinamide on an ingredients list, you're getting the skin-friendly version — which is why it's the form used in virtually all skincare, and why you'll sometimes see it listed as nicotinamide, another name for the same molecule.

Five main things, each with a solid body of research behind it.

It regulates oil production

Your sebaceous glands produce sebum continuously. How much depends on genetics, hormones, climate and — significantly — how you treat your skin. Niacinamide helps moderate sebum output at the source, so skin produces a more reasonable amount rather than being stripped and left to overcompensate.

That distinction matters more than almost anything else in an oily-skin routine. Stripping cleansers and harsh astringents remove oil that's already on the surface, and your skin reads that as a shortage and responds by making more. Niacinamide works upstream of that cycle. You end up with less shine through the day and, importantly, less of the rebound greasiness that shows up a few hours after a stripping cleanse.

If you're not sure why your skin runs oily in the first place, Why Is My Skin So Oily? covers the underlying causes, and our full oily skin guide sets out a complete routine.

It reduces the appearance of pores

Pores don't open and close — that's one of the most persistent myths in skincare. What they do is look larger when they're congested, stretched by trapped oil and dead skin, or losing the structural support of the skin around them.

Niacinamide works on the first two. Regulate the oil, reduce what's collecting in the pore, and the pore looks tighter and less obvious. It's a visual improvement rather than a structural one, but it's a genuine and measurable one — and it builds gradually over about eight weeks rather than appearing overnight.

For the full picture on what fills pores in the first place, What Causes Clogged Pores is worth reading alongside this.

It evens skin tone

Pigment is produced by melanocytes deep in the skin and then transferred upward to surrounding skin cells, where it becomes visible as a dark mark. Niacinamide interrupts that transfer step.

This is particularly relevant for the marks left behind after breakouts — the flat brown or reddish patches that linger long after the blemish itself has gone. Because niacinamide targets the transfer stage rather than pigment production, it works gradually and predictably, without the irritation risk that comes with stronger brightening ingredients.

We've covered this in depth in Niacinamide for Hyperpigmentation, Dark Spots and Brightening, and if post-breakout marking is your main concern, Niacinamide for Acne Scars goes further. Our hyperpigmentation guide covers the wider picture.

It strengthens the skin barrier

Your skin barrier is the outermost layer, built from skin cells held together by a lipid matrix of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. When it's intact, it holds moisture in and keeps irritants out. When it's compromised, you get tightness, flaking, stinging from products that never used to sting, and skin that reacts to everything.

Niacinamide supports your skin's own production of ceramides and other barrier lipids. Rather than sitting on top of the skin as a temporary patch, it helps the barrier rebuild itself — which is why it's so often recommended alongside more demanding actives, and why it suits dry and sensitive skin as readily as oily skin.

It calms visible redness

Niacinamide has well-established soothing properties, which makes it a sensible option for skin that flushes easily, looks generally irritated, or is prone to redness around breakouts. It won't treat a medical condition, but for everyday visible redness it's one of the gentler ways to take the heat out of skin.

Yes — it's arguably the single most useful ingredient available for it.

Oily skin is usually caught in a loop. Skin produces excess oil, so you reach for something stronger to strip it away, which compromises the barrier, which prompts the skin to produce more oil to compensate. Repeat that for a few months and you end up with skin that's simultaneously greasy and dehydrated, tight and shiny at the same time. If that sounds familiar, Why Oily Skin Gets Dehydrated Too explains exactly what's happening.

Niacinamide breaks the loop because it regulates rather than strips. You're not removing oil aggressively and provoking a response — you're moderating production while keeping the barrier intact.

A few things worth getting right alongside it:

Moisturiser still matters. Skipping it is the most common oily-skin mistake, and it makes shine worse rather than better. The Best Moisturiser for Oily Skin covers what to look for.

SPF is non-negotiable, and texture is solvable. Most people with oily skin who avoid SPF are avoiding the feel of it. Sunscreen for Oily, Blemish-Prone Skin covers formats that work.

Summer needs adjusting for. Heat and humidity increase sebum output. Oily Skin in Summer covers seasonal changes.

Combination skin needs a slightly different approach — an oily T-zone alongside normal or dry cheeks. Our Guide to Combination Skin sets that out.

For oily, blemish-prone skin specifically, niacinamide pairs exceptionally well with salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it gets into the pore and clears it out; niacinamide reduces the oil that would otherwise refill it. Full detail in Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide: The Best Duo for Oily, Blemish-Prone Skin, and more on the acid itself in our salicylic acid guide.

Our 10% Niacinamide Serum sits at the concentration most clinical research supports for visible oil and pore results, while remaining comfortable enough for twice-daily use.

Concentration is one of the most misunderstood things in skincare. The instinct is that a higher number means a better product. With niacinamide, that isn't how it works — the research shows benefits levelling off above a certain point while the likelihood of irritation keeps climbing.

The practical takeaway: consistency at 10% will outperform occasional use of something stronger. A serum used twice daily for three months does considerably more than a high-strength product used sporadically.

Niacinamide is one of the most straightforward actives to work into a routine. It doesn't need a gradual introduction, doesn't cause sun sensitivity, doesn't need to be reserved for evenings, and doesn't require you to rearrange anything else you're using.

The method: apply 2–3 drops to clean, dry skin, before moisturiser. Press it in rather than rubbing — you're helping absorption, not massaging it in. Follow with moisturiser to seal it, and SPF in the morning.

On dry versus damp skin: niacinamide is water-soluble and absorbs perfectly well either way. If you're layering it with a hydrating serum, apply the hydrating one to damp skin first, let it settle, then apply niacinamide.

On timing: morning gives you oil control through the day, which is what most people notice first. Evening lets it work alongside your recovery routine. Twice daily is fine and gets you both.

On patience: oil control shows up first, usually within a fortnight. Pore appearance takes around eight weeks. Tone work takes eight to twelve. None of this is fast, and all of it is cumulative.

For a full walkthrough including layering order, see How and When to Use Niacinamide.

Morning routine

Evening routine

The second cleanse in the evening isn't strictly necessary for everyone, but if you wear SPF and make-up daily it makes a noticeable difference to congestion. Our complete guide to double cleansing explains when it's worth it. If you're building a routine from scratch, start with Build Your Skincare Routine.

Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid - Can You Use Both?

Yes - and this is one of the most effective combinations for oily and blemish-prone skin. They work on different mechanisms:

• Salicylic Acid is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) that penetrates inside the pore lining, dissolving the buildup of dead skin cells and sebum that leads to blackheads and congestion. It works fast and works deep.
• Niacinamide regulates oil production and calms the inflammation that makes blemishes red and persistent. It works at the sebaceous gland level rather than inside the pore.

Used together, they create a comprehensive blemish-fighting approach: Salicylic Acid deals with what's already there; niacinamide reduces the conditions that create new breakouts. The easiest way to combine them? Use INKEY List's Salicylic Acid Cleanser as your first step, followed by the 10% Niacinamide Serum as your treatment step. No timing gymnastics required.

Niacinamide and Retinol - Better Together

Niacinamide and Retinol are one of skincare's most powerful duos - and one of the most misunderstood. They are not competing actives. They're complementary:

• Retinol accelerates cell turnover, targeting fine lines, textural concerns, and deep skin ageing
• Niacinamide regulates oil, calms inflammation, and strengthens the barrier

Together, they cover anti-ageing and clarity in a single routine. The key to using them together: apply niacinamide first. It buffers the potential irritation and dryness that Retinol can cause when you're starting out or using a higher strength, making the combination far more tolerable — especially for sensitive skin.

Application order (PM): Cleanse → Niacinamide Serum → Retinol → Moisturiser

Niacinamide and Vitamin C - The Truth

There's a long-standing myth that niacinamide and Vitamin C can't be used together - the concern being that combining them creates a compound called nicotinic acid that causes flushing. This was based on outdated research using highly unstable forms of both ingredients, and is largely considered irrelevant to modern, well-formulated skincare products.

In practice, using INKEY's Niacinamide and Vitamin C products at different points in your routine (morning vs evening, or simply as separate steps) is the most straightforward approach. INKEY's 15% Vitamin C & EGF Serum and the 10% Niacinamide Serum can both feature in the same routine - just don't mix them in your palm and apply them as a cocktail.

Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid - The Perfect Pairing

This is INKEY's signature combination, and for good reason. Hyaluronic Acid delivers immediate, lightweight hydration - it works on the surface of skin by drawing moisture in and holding it there. Niacinamide then provides the active treatment step. Used in sequence (HA serum first, niacinamide serum second), they give you hydration AND oil control AND blemish reduction in a routine that takes less than two minutes. Neither ingredient competes with or counteracts the other - they simply do different things, beautifully together.

10% Niacinamide Serum - £12 | 30ml

The INKEY List's 10% Niacinamide Serum is where most people should start - and where most people stay. Formulated at 10%, it sits at the concentration sweet spot: high enough to deliver meaningful, clinically validated results for oil control and blemish reduction, gentle enough to use daily on all skin types including sensitive. At £12 for 30ml, it's also one of the most accessible effective actives in skincare.

What it contains:

• 10% Niacinamide - the active. Regulates oil, reduces blemishes, refines pore appearance, evens tone
• Hyaluronic Acid - supports hydration so the formula controls oil without leaving skin feeling stripped or tight
• Allantoin - soothes and calms the skin, supporting tolerability
• Squalane (plant-derived from sugarcane) - a lightweight, non-comedogenic emollient that supports the skin barrier without adding heaviness

Product highlights:

• Lightweight, serum texture - layers easily under moisturiser and makeup
• Fragrance-free - suitable for sensitive skin
• Pregnancy and breastfeeding safe
• pH: 6.09 - optimised for niacinamide stability and skin compatibility
• Cruelty-free (Leaping Bunny certified)
• B Corp certified

Note: This formula is NOT vegan (contains a small amount of an egg-derived ingredient).

What customers say (4.5 stars | 737 reviews):

Customers consistently report visible oil control within the first 1–2 weeks, with meaningful blemish reduction by weeks 4–6. It's one of INKEY's most repurchased products - a strong indicator that results are sustained, not just initial.

How to use:

Apply a pea-sized amount to face and neck after cleansing and any hydrating serums. Use morning, evening, or both. Follow with moisturiser.

Shop 10% Niacinamide Serum

Omega Water Cream - £14 | 50ml

If the 10% Niacinamide Serum is your oil-control treatment step, the Omega Water Cream is the perfect final seal - a lightweight, oil-free moisturiser that also contains 5% Niacinamide, creating a complete niacinamide system across your treatment and moisture steps in one routine.

Where most moisturisers designed for oily skin sacrifice hydration for a matte finish, Omega Water Cream refuses the trade-off. Its gel-water texture delivers deep hydration instantly while locking in the results of the niacinamide serum underneath. It's non-comedogenic, absorbs quickly, and leaves no greasy residue - which is why it became an award-winner almost immediately after launch.

What it contains:

• 5% Niacinamide - oil control and tone-evening in your moisturiser step
• 0.2% Ceramide Complex - rebuilds and reinforces the skin barrier
• 5% Glycerin - a humectant that draws and retains moisture in the skin
• 3% Betaine - soothes and supports moisture balance
• Omega-rich oils - nourish without clogging, supporting a healthy, balanced skin surface

Key clinical results (**4-week independent consumer study of 22 people)

• 95% agreed skin tone looked more even after 28 days
• 100% said skin felt deeply hydrated after 14 days

Awards: Recognised by Get the Gloss, Allure, ELLE, Vogue, and Women's Health - making it one of THE INKEY LIST's most celebrated launches.

How to use:
Apply after your 10% Niacinamide Serum as the final step before SPF in the morning, or as your overnight moisturiser in the evening.

Shop Omega Water Cream

Niacinamide isn't a trend. It's one of the most comprehensively studied, consistently validated, and universally tolerated actives in modern skincare - and it's been quietly doing its job in dermatology for decades before the internet caught up with it.

If you deal with excess oil, acne and blemishes, visible pores, uneven skin tone, or a compromised skin barrier, niacinamide belongs in your routine. It won't ask you to go through a purging phase. It won't cause sensitivity or dryness. It won't fight with your other actives. It simply works - visibly, consistently, and at a price point that refuses to make good skin a privilege.

The best place to start is INKEY's 10% Niacinamide Serum - £12, 30ml, over 700 five-star reviews, and a formula that has made it one of our most repurchased products for good reason.

Use it consistently. Give it time. And watch your skin become a more balanced, clearer version of itself.

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Oily Skin 

Hyperpigmentation 

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Hyaluronic Acid 

Double Cleansing 

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