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The Correct Skincare Routine Order: How to Layer Your Products in 5 Steps

19.06.2020 | Skincare

Are you applying your skincare products in the wrong order? Research shows that incorrect layering can reduce product effectiveness by up to 40%. That expensive vitamin C serum could be sitting uselessly on top of your moisturiser instead of penetrating your skin where it belongs.

The solution isn’t buying more products—it’s applying them correctly. Proper skincare layering follows scientific principles of molecular weight and pH compatibility to ensure every ingredient reaches its target and performs optimally.

This guide reveals the 5 essential steps for correct skincare layering, backed by dermatological research and designed for real results.

Why Does Skincare Routine Order Matter?

Your skin acts as a sophisticated barrier designed to keep harmful substances out and moisture in. Understanding how products penetrate this barrier is crucial for effective skincare.

Skincare layering follows the principle of molecular weight—smaller molecules penetrate deeper, whilst larger ones work at the surface. When you apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency, you create optimal conditions for each ingredient to function. A lightweight serum applied after a heavy moisturiser will struggle to penetrate, rendering its benefits largely ineffective.

Additionally, different ingredients require specific pH levels to work properly. Vitamin C performs best in acidic conditions (pH 2.0-3.5), whilst retinoids function optimally at neutral pH (5.5-6.0). Proper layering respects these requirements, maximising each ingredient’s effectiveness.

What Is the Correct Order for Your Skincare Routine?

The golden rule: apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency, allowing each layer to absorb before applying the next. This ensures optimal penetration whilst building up to more occlusive products that seal everything in.

The 5-Step Framework:

  1. Clean - Remove impurities, make-up and SPF
  2. Hydrate – Your healthiest skin starts with hydration 
  3. Target - Use treatment products for specific concerns 
  4. Moisturise - Lock in hydration
  5. Protect - Apply SPF (morning only) for UV protection 

This sequence works for any routine, whether you use 3 products or 10. The key is understanding each product’s function and placing it where it can work most effectively.

Step 1: Clean Your Skin Properly

Cleansing creates the optimal foundation for everything that follows. Morning cleansing removes overnight buildup of sebum and dead skin cells. Evening cleansing eliminates makeup, SPF, pollution, and daily accumulation.

For thorough makeup removal: Start with INKEY’s Oat Cleansing Balm. This gentle balm dissolves makeup and sunscreen whilst supporting your skin barrier.

For cleansing & brightening: INKEY’s Fulvic Acid Cleanser provides gentle exfoliation to reveal a brighter and healthier looking complexion

For gentle, everyday use: INKEY’s Milk Cleanser offers creamy, nourishing cleansing suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

For congested or acne-prone skin: Use INKEY’s Salicylic Acid Cleanser that penetrates pores to clear buildup, prevent breakouts and reduce excess oil.

Shop all cleansers ->

Application tips:

  • Use lukewarm water—hot water strips natural oils 
  • Massage gently for 60 seconds to ensure thorough removal 
  • Your skin should feel clean but not tight or “squeaky” 
  • Double cleanse in the evening if wearing makeup or SPF.

Step 2: Hydrate with Serums First

Hydrating serums contain smaller molecules that penetrate deeply, delivering concentrated moisture where it’s needed most. Apply these immediately after cleansing whilst your skin is still slightly receptive.

Essential hydration: INKEY’s Hyaluronic Acid Serum is your hydration powerhouse. Hyaluronic acid holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water, providing both immediate and sustained hydration. Apply 2-3 drops to slightly damp skin for enhanced effectiveness.

Advanced barrier support: INKEY’s Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum offers cutting-edge hydration technology. Ectoin is an extremolyte that protects cells from environmental stress whilst maintaining optimal moisture levels, making it ideal for sensitive or compromised skin barriers.

Rejuvenating hydration: INKEY’s Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex uses advanced plant- based exosome technology to visibly boost glow, smooth and renew skin.

Shop all hydrating serums ->

Application technique:

  • Apply to clean, slightly damp skin 
  • Use gentle pressing motions rather than rubbing 
  • Allow 30-60 seconds for absorption before the next step 
  • Layer multiple hydrating serums if needed, starting with thinnest consistency 

Step 3: Target Specific Skin Concerns

This is where you apply treatment products designed to address specific skin concerns. These products contain concentrated active ingredients or specialised solutions for targeted results.

Skin brightening: INKEY’s 15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum provides powerful morning protection against environmental damage whilst brightening dull and uneven skin tone.

Comprehensive skin clearing: INKEY’s 360 Skin Clearing Serum targets multiple acne-causing factors with a blend of active ingredients designed to clear existing breakouts and prevent new ones.

Targeted blemish treatment: INKEY’s Hydrocolloid Pimple Patches provide immediate spot treatment by drawing out impurities whilst protecting the area from external bacteria.

Anti-ageing renewal: Choose between INKEY’s Starter Retinol for beginners or INKEY’s Advanced Retinal for experienced users. Both accelerate cell turnover and stimulate collagen production for smoother, more youthful skin.

Hyperpigmentation treatment: INKEY’s Tranexamic Acid Serum gently fades dark spots and evens skin tone without the irritation associated with harsher brightening agents.

Breakout & blackhead fighter: INKEY’s Beta Hydroxy Acid Serum gently exfoliates & penetrate deep into pores and reduce excess oil.

Reduce redness & excess oil: INKEY’s Niacinamide Serum regulates oil production, minimises pore appearance, and reduces inflammation whilst being compatible with virtually all other ingredients.

Eye area care: INKEY’s Caffeine Eye Cream targets morning puffiness and dark circles, whilst INKEY’s Retinol Eye Cream provides gentle anti-ageing benefits specifically formulated for the delicate eye area.

Shop all serums & treatments ->

Shop all eye creams ->

Application guidelines:

  • Apply thinnest consistency products first 
  • Allow 30-60 seconds between different treatments 
  • Introduce new actives gradually to build tolerance 
  • Use vitamin C in morning, retinol in evening 
  • Apply eye treatments using ring finger with gentle tapping motions 

Step 4: Moisturise to Lock Everything In

Moisturising serves as the protective seal that locks in all the beneficial ingredients you’ve layered underneath whilst providing essential hydration and barrier support.

For comprehensive barrier support: INKEY’s Bio Active Moisturiser combines ceramides, peptides, and moisture-binding ingredients to repair and maintain skin barrier function.

For lightweight hydration: INKEY’s Omega Water Cream provides substantial moisture through an advanced omega fatty acid complex without heaviness. The gel-like texture absorbs quickly whilst delivering long-lasting hydration, making it ideal for oily or combination skin.

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Application technique:

  • Use approximately half a pump for face and neck 
  • Apply using upward, outward motions 
  • Extend application to neck and décolletage 
  • Allow 2-3 minutes for absorption before applying SPF 
  • Choose formula based on your skin type and the richness of previous layers 

Step 5: Protect with SPF (Morning Only)

SPF represents the most crucial anti-ageing step in your morning routine. UV damage accumulates over time, contributing to premature ageing, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer risk.

Broad-spectrum protection: INKEY’s Dewy SPF 30 provides comprehensive UV protection whilst delivering a healthy, natural glow. The lightweight formula absorbs easily without white cast or greasiness.

Application essentials:

  • Use approximately ¼ teaspoon for face and neck 
  • Apply as the final step in your morning routine 
  • Don’t forget often-missed areas: ears, around eyes, hairline 
  • Reapply every 2 hours during sun exposure 
  • Wait 2-3 minutes after moisturiser before applying 

Why SPF matters:

  • UV rays penetrate clouds year-round 
  • UVA rays pass through windows 
  • Active ingredients can increase photosensitivity 
  • Daily protection prevents cumulative damage 

Essential Skincare Layering Rules to Remember

Timing Rules:
• Allow 30-60 seconds between each product for proper absorption 
• Apply to clean skin that feels slightly damp (not wet) 
• Wait 2-3 minutes between moisturiser and SPF application

Compatibility Guidelines:
• Vitamin C in morning, retinol in evening (never together) 
• Don’t combine retinol with AHAs/BHAs on the same night 
• Niacinamide is compatible with virtually all other ingredients 
• Layer water-based products before oil-based products

Learn more about what ingredients you should not mix together ->

Introduction Strategy:
• Add one new active ingredient at a time 
• Start with lower frequencies (2-3 times per week) 
• Perform patch tests before full application 
• Monitor skin response and adjust accordingly

Learn more about how to patch test -> 

Application Techniques:
• Use pressing motions, not rubbing, to prevent irritation 
• Apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency 
• Use appropriate amounts—more isn’t always better 
• Extend routine to neck and décolletage

Troubleshooting:
• Product pilling = too much product or insufficient absorption time 
• Persistent irritation = reduce frequency or eliminate incompatible combinations 
• No results = check application order and ensure adequate product penetration

Seasonal Adjustments:
• Winter: Richer moisturisers, potentially more hydrating layers 
• Summer: Lighter formulations, increased SPF diligence 
• Year-round: Maintain consistency whilst adjusting to environmental needs

Transform Your Skin Through Smart Layering

Mastering skincare layering isn’t about using more products—it’s about using them correctly. When you understand the science behind product absorption and apply these five steps consistently, you maximise every ingredient’s potential whilst protecting your investment.

The framework is simple: cleanse, hydrate, target, moisturise, and protect. The execution requires patience, consistency, and attention to your skin’s changing needs. Start with the basics, build gradually, and remember that the best routine is one you’ll follow consistently.

Ready to optimise your routine? Take INKEY’s skincare quiz to identify the perfect products for your skin’s specific needs, or connect with our experts through #askINKEY for personalised guidance.

Your skin’s potential is waiting to be unlocked—proper layering is the key.

Photo of Written by one of our askINKEY skincare advisors

Written by one of our askINKEY skincare advisors

Our askINKEY team are a friendly bunch, all experts with deep product knowledge, ready to make skincare as simple as possible. Whether you are an ingredient expert or starting your journey, no question is too big or too small, no judgement or jargon, we’re here to help and be part of your journey.